JT’s Beer Equipment Page
Remote Sensing DIY Controller |
|
|
|
|
After building a Son of a Fermentation Chiller and using it for a while.
I found the following problems:
· It would only hold one carboy
· The analog thermostat sucked
· It is a PIA to deal with the ice in deep narrow ice chambers
So I redesigned the controller first to use a digital remote sensing thermostat for under $25.
The
RiteTemp Model 8029B digital thermostat under $25 at Home Depot.
It is run by two AA batteries and has a thermistor on the circuit board.
It is easy to modify the thermistor to remote sensing. It will go as low as 35°F.
The 8029B is not in
production any more AFAIK so a fellow brewer found a newer model.
Just to let you know, the
RiteTemp 6020 is the newer model with the
detachable thermistor. I used
your instructions for the 8029B and it
worked like a champ. Shawn
The
first thing you do is to remove the battery compartment.
Then
remove the SIX screws that hold the
upper circuit board on.
Do
Not Remove the two screws on the
left of the circuit board.
It
will not blow up you just don’t need to remove them.
Remove the upper circuit board.
Remove
the screws holding the lower circuit board on.
Carefully
remove the lower circuit board.
Do
Not tip the front case over lots
of stuff will fall out!
If you tip it over all the little goodies will fall
out.
This
is how they looked before you dumped them out.
Locate the thermistor on the upper corner of the lower
circuit board.
Carefully
heat the solder and pull out the thermistor wires one at a time.
If
you have a solder sucker you can clean out the holes but it’s not necessary.
Solder two wires in place of the thermistor.
You
can heat the solder up and push the wire through.
I
used solid core 24awg wire I had from another project.
I
got the wire from Radio Shack it was 4 conductor and I just stripped two off.
Make sure you have a good solder joint.
I
use a low wattage soldering iron with a pencil point.
No
Solder Guns Please.
Clip off the wires with a toe nail clipper.
Route
wires as shown or your
favorite
way.
Reinstall the battery compartment
Route
the wires as shown or your
favorite
way.
Solder the thermistor to the ends of the wire.
Put
heat shrink tubing on the wires before you solder.
Tin
the ends of the wire and solder each one on.
Slide
the heat shrink over the joint and shrink.
Complete the project by putting a larger heat shrink
tube
over
the entire thermistor and the solder joints.
After installing on your fermentation chiller tape
the
thermistor to the side of the carboy.
Put
a couple of paper towels folded up as shown
over
then thermistor for insulation from the air.
The completed controller mounted
on
the outside of the fermentation chiller.
If
you need to switch over 24 volts use a relay.
The
capacitor across the switched legs can’t take
120vac.
How do I know, well I tried so you don’t
have
to smell the smoke when it comes out.
This is a general diagram on the
hookup
for the controller using a
12
– 24 volt fan and power supply.
This
is the general hook up if you use a relay
to
control a 120 volt AC device like a fan or a pump.
Make
sure the relay contacts are rated for at least
120
volts AC and are rated to handle the load amps.
This
is a wiring diagram if your using a DC fan and pump
for
the glycol chilling system. Thanks Joe…
If
you need any more information just let me know.
John