Remote Sensing DIY Controller
After building a Son of a Fermentation Chiller and using it for a while.
I found the following problems:
· It would only hold one carboy
· The analog thermostat sucked
· It is a PIA to deal with the ice in deep narrow ice chambers
So I redesigned the controller first to use a digital remote sensing thermostat for under $25.
It is run by two AA batteries and has a thermistor on the circuit board.
It is easy to modify the thermistor to remote sensing. It will go as low as 35°F.
The 8029B is not in production any more AFAIK so a fellow brewer found a newer model.
Just to let you know, the RiteTemp 6020 is the newer model with the
detachable thermistor. I used your instructions for the 8029B and it
worked like a champ. Shawn
Do Not Remove the two screws on the left of the circuit board.
It will not blow up you just don’t need to remove them.
Remove the screws holding the lower circuit board on.
Carefully remove the lower circuit board.
Do Not tip the front case over lots of stuff will fall out!
This is how they looked before you dumped them out.
Carefully heat the solder and pull out the thermistor wires one at a time.
If you have a solder sucker you can clean out the holes but it’s not necessary.
You can heat the solder up and push the wire through.
I used solid core 24awg wire I had from another project.
I got the wire from Radio Shack it was 4 conductor and I just stripped two off.
I use a low wattage soldering iron with a pencil point.
No Solder Guns Please.
Route wires as shown or your
Route the wires as shown or your
Put heat shrink tubing on the wires before you solder.
Tin the ends of the wire and solder each one on.
Slide the heat shrink over the joint and shrink.
over the entire thermistor and the solder joints.
the thermistor to the side of the carboy.
Put a couple of paper towels folded up as shown
over then thermistor for insulation from the air.
on the outside of the fermentation chiller.
If you need to switch over 24 volts use a relay.
The capacitor across the switched legs can’t take
120vac. How do I know, well I tried so you don’t
have to smell the smoke when it comes out.
hookup for the controller using a
12 – 24 volt fan and power supply.
This is the general hook up if you use a relay
to control a 120 volt AC device like a fan or a pump.
Make sure the relay contacts are rated for at least
120 volts AC and are rated to handle the load amps.
This is a wiring diagram if your using a DC fan and pump
for the glycol chilling system. Thanks Joe…
If you need any more information just let me know.